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A road paved with glass.
That’s how I think of Glass Butte, Oregon, now that we’ve been there. The road sparkled in the sunlight and the glass crunched under our feet. It was magical, in a way.
As we blossomed into rockhounds, collecting obsidian became an obvious prize. We wanted to collect it ourselves, and in Oregon there’s only one legal spot to go: Glass Butte.
How to Get to Glass Butte, Oregon
Drive through Bend and as you approach milepost 77 on Hwy 20, this is your first view of Glass Butte, Oregon. It’s just as remote as it looks, about 13 miles from the nearest “town”, Hampton, which has a great cafe and one gas pump.
Turn off the highway at milepost 77 and start up the gravel road. We have a minivan, and the road was really good at first. It does degrade after a while, but we could still travel pretty easily, if carefully, in our van.
Obsidian Everywhere
We stopped a couple of times at well-used primitive campsites. These are very often used by knappers (people who make arrowheads and knife points from obsidian). At the first stop, piles of shards were everywhere we looked. We didn’t let the kids out here, especially our little ones. There was just too much glass all over the ground and it was very sharp.
As we explored, we picked up some lovely shards. Immediately, I realized that obsidian comes in a lot more colors than black.
We drove up to the turnoff that heads up to the butte-top where the red obsidian and rainbow can be found. This road was not passable with our van, so we pulled into the campsite there to turn around. Our plan was to head back down to the aurora borealis pit and start digging. But instead, disaster struck.
Disaster!
As we pulled into the campsite, our van temperature suddenly started rising. My husband shut the van off, and as he did, smoke billowed from under the hood. Uh oh.
Long story short, a piece broke off of our radiator. My husband was able to jury-rig it and we made our way back toward the highway. We were planning to camp anyway, and as it was getting late, we went ahead and made camp at the closest site to the highway. The next morning, we got up early, broke camp without eating, and drove very slowly to the highway.
Once on the highway, we had to stop every couple of miles to refill the radiator with water. Every time we stopped, other people stopped, too, to offer assistance and water. One family followed us the rest of the way to Hampton, stopping when we stopped. They waved heartily as we pulled into the Hampton Cafe, and they continued on. We were safe and had a wonderful breakfast while we waited for a tow truck.
Examples of Primitive Camping at Glass Butte
Glass Butte doesn’t have any official camping. There are zero amenities. You’re truly on your own here, so be prepared to pack it all in and pack it out again. No garbage service, no toilets, no designated campsites.
However, since the area has been in use for decades by knapping groups and rockhounders, there are primitive campsites somewhat established along the roads.
Obsidian We Collected at Glass Butte
Once we got home, I sorted and washed the shards and pieces we’d found around the campsite. We did come away with some nice pieces, even if we never reached the dig sites and we never dug any ourselves. I can only imagine what we’d have found if we’d have made it to the dig sites!
Let’s Go!
If you go, and I hope that you do, here are the details you’ll need to know.
Cost: free, 250 lb per person per year limit
Maps: We used the map in Gem Trails of Oregon and it was a great map. There’s also this excellent map that floats around online, but I haven’t found the creator of this map (so if you know, let me know!)
For More Info: While Glass Butte is managed by the BLM, the Deschutes National Forest has a helpful writeup and can also assist with questions.
Ages of our children: 11, 6, and 3, and 4 months
Tips: we had great cell service the entire time (AT&T), there is a cell tower on the larger Glass Butte. No bathrooms, not even pit toilets. Take your own toilet paper! Glass was everywhere and it was very sharp, so wear good shoes. There are no facilities whatsoever, so pack in everything you’ll need, including water.
25 comments
Thanks for the awesome pictures and details! Very helpful.
I went with a class from university. We were studying lithics so it was a blast to go out and dig up our own material. One thing that hubby strongly advises, PUNCTURE REPAIR KITS AND A GOOD SPARE TIRE! Several of the rest of the group didn’t bring kits and ended up with flats. Luckily hubby is always prepared, as was our instructor. Also, LOTS of bandaids.
So good to hear they have cell coverage out there now, we didn’t when we went way back when.
Now I want to go back. I think I know where next year’s camping trip is going to be 😀
That does sound like fun! I majored in forestry, but we didn’t learn much about geology. It’s fascinating to me now. But YES on the repair kits and bandaids! And gallons of extra water, just in case.
I am a regular at the annual Knapp-in held, every year during Oregon’s spring break. I can only assume the waay to glassy camp was our main camp, where everyone sits around the fire and knapps. I recognize some of the pieces you collected from a giant rock that was spalled right there in camp this spring. I have never seen soo many eyes in one rock and I cant believe some were left behind! Yall are more than welcome to come out durring the Knapp-in…. when there is people around to help!
Thank you so much for the offer! We’d love to return to Glass Buttes, as we still haven’t gotten to dig any obsidian ourselves. We did find some beautiful cast-off pieces, and we were so appreciative for that. Glass Buttes is a special place, and I can only imagine the reverence that the Native Americans must have held for the area.
Thanks so much for all the information, we’d love to go there!. How far off the road are the bluffs? We’re in a rental RV heading west from Wisconsin and was wondering if we could park along the road and hike back to avoid the road hazards? Or is the hike too far off the road?
It’s about 4 miles off the highway. It’s slightly uphill, but not ridiculous. Your RV could probably make it most of the way, the roads are pretty good, or at least, they were on our visit. You could probably get to within a mile of one or two of the dig sites.
Thanks so much for the information, we’ll give it a try, hopefully we won’t leave a bumper behind! You have a great website, I found several other stops we’ll try to make, the Sunstone area and the John Day Fossil beds you linked to. We don’t have any little ones, we’re older middle aged with a grown teenager and two oversized, over-loved dogs that are aging that we can’t bear to leave behind (which is why we rented the RV). There isn’t many National Parks that allow dogs on trails, I was glad to see John Day allows this! We would love to check out the gold mines but this will have to be another trip.
I love the combination of writing, photography and video on your site…. so much better than anything a written travel guide can bring. Guides would never tell you they passed a stranded car on the gravel roadside with black fluid flowing out! This is “good to know” information. What an awesome site you have! We’re heading out from Wisconsin on Tuesday, never seen Oregon or the Pacific coast!
Thank you so much, Dave! You’ve made my day. I truly hope that you enjoy your time in Oregon. If you have any questions along the way, don’t hesitate to ask!
Glass Butte is a major on my bucket list. I an looking for RED obsidian. I was once given a piece but have never been able to find that pure red again. Now I wonder if it was man made glass? Glass Butte is my last hope.
We found some nice orangey red pieces. It’s a possibility, I think! Some gorgeous variations at Glass Buttes.
Is it illegal to sell what you find?
I believe it is for personal use only. I would contact the BLM directly to find out for sure, and to ask if there is a permit for commercial collection. https://www.blm.gov/office/prineville-district-office
Mailing Address:
3050 N.E. 3rd Street
Prineville, OR 97754
Email:
BLM_OR_PR_Mail@blm.gov
Phone: 541-416-6700
I have been up to glass buttes several times. The pickings are much better on little glass butte. Plus pinterest( not sure of spelling) has great maps that are detailed enough to take you to spots where you cas n find fire, rainbow, gold sheen, silver sheen, snow flake etc. obsidian plus more. I found a really cool piece that when held in the sun reflected a golden ribbon across it. But the site is very remote. Bring plenty of supplies like food and water and toilet paper. I also had verizon phone service. I did not check to see if I had phone service everywhere but I had service everytime I did use my phone.
Thank you for the tips! We are hoping to go back sometime for a {successful} visit. I’ve never heard of snow flake, I’ll have to look it up!
*can not cas n
Thank you for posting this. Very informative-I was wondering where to camp. Looks like this is not a problem. I’m getting gold-er-obsidian fever…gotta go,gotta go,gotta go. Hope to head out that way before the month is over…..thanks again!, Melissa
Since there isn’t an official campground, you can camp anywhere you want. There are quite a few informal campsites that have obviously been used a lot. They’re strung along the main road and easy to find. People have created fire rings at these impromptu campsites. If you go, have fun! I hope you find some great pieces.
How could you possibly know that wasn’t an artifact but a recent made point? Native Americans used glass buttes for centuries as a source of knappable material. In the spring and summer I all but live out there. I know of 3 primitive knapping areas that are covered in debutage and points with cedars and sage growing in these sites. Making them damn old. Glass buttes is a special place and if you don’t actually watch a Knapper produce the point you should treat it as a relic. Look, enjoy but, do not pick it up, do not take it home telling yourself it’s a modern made point…. I drive a black Honda Ridgeline and would love to take you to some dig sites, but I only show the primitive sites to a select few. Emory Coons has several claims out at the buttes. Some right there at the pond. Be careful where you harvest material. You could be a claim jumper. Emory just loves chain jumpers….
See a blade, point, or tool there…. look enjoy and walk away.
You make a really good point! In our case, we were at a commonly used campsite just off the main road, filled with castaway glass fragments from the annual knappers meet up. And of course, we never left the main road thanks to our car trouble. Your advice is very appropriate, and a good reminder!
Thanks for the great article! I was able to find the same map with the creator’s name. Apparently it came from the Highland Rock and Gem Shop in Burns!
I was just there and heading back next week. Still freezing out there right now. I think I took the wrong road, looking at the map I think I took the one at mile point 75, I”ll have to try 77. I have no problem off roading it a bit in my Dodge Dart but it couldn’t make the road I was on it was almost a 2 foot differential on a one car road between left and right halves. If I have to ill pull over and park, the hike the rest. I am bringing a wheeled garden kart so I won’t have to carry the rocks weight all the way round the site. Got lots of Mahogony Obsidian samples just from the road but it was so frozen I had to use a rock pick to get the pieces that were just on top of the road not even embedded. I got a YouTube video I made of the trip but it doesn’t have much from the site because I only made it a quarter mile before I decided my money was best spent on food and not car repair. I’ll try to document it better next trip. I never see enough detail in the videos I’ve watched so I’ll try to make up for it so it’s a bit more obvious how to get there and what you can find.
Thank you for the updated road report!
Please be mindful that just because there is obsidian on the road to the free dig, you may be trespassing on the several private claims. We dig with a claim owner in this area and it is always fair to mention that you will need to be certain you are in the free dig area here and not on a private claim. I know based on your map where the “ponds” are mentioned there are 2 claim owners nearby. Claims also change regularly: some stay, some are added, and rarely some claims lapse and become fair game.
Good reminder! We always advocate for only being within the BLM boundaries in the public collection site. The best way to make sure you’re on the right property is to use an official map. The Central Oregon Rock Hounding Map can be purchased online and in many Central Oregon visitor centers. https://visitcentraloregon.com/things-to-do/activities/rockhounding/